Nozzle Temperature Chart for Every Common Filament

Every filament has a window where it flows cleanly without cooking. Below it you get weak, gappy prints; above it you get strings, blobs, and soft corners. This is the whole chart in one place, plus how to move within a range once you’re printing.

The Chart

Carbon and glass-filled blends print at roughly their base material’s temperature plus about 10C, and they need a hardened steel or ruby nozzle. Brass wears measurably within a single spool.

How to Read It

Start in the middle of the range, print something real, then move in 5C steps toward whichever problem you’re trying to solve. Ranges exist because brand, color, nozzle size, and print speed all shift the right answer, and the label on your spool beats this chart every time.

Two hard limits are worth knowing before you type a number:

• PTFE-lined hotends cap out around 240-250C. Above that the liner degrades and off-gasses. If you want ABS, ASA, nylon, or PC, you need an all-metal hotend.
• Bed surfaces have limits too. Most PEI sheets are fine to 110C; adhesive-backed sheets can start lifting above that.

First-Layer Offsets

The first layer is the only layer worth giving different numbers.

• Nozzle: +5C over the rest of the print. More than +10C causes elephant’s foot, where the base bulges outward.
• Bed: same as the rest for most materials. For ABS and ASA, 5-10C hotter helps the first layer stay put while the part builds.
• Fan: off for the first one or two layers, every material, no exceptions.
• Speed: 20-25 mm/s.

Cooling by Material

Cooling is half the temperature story and the setting most often left at the wrong value.

• PLA wants everything the fan can give. It sets fast and holds detail.
• PETG wants 30-50%. Full cooling makes PETG layers split; no cooling makes it stringy and rounds every overhang.
• ABS and ASA want almost none. They warp and delaminate when cooled quickly, which is also why they want an enclosure.
• TPU sits in the middle at 30-60%, and prefers slow travel over aggressive cooling.
• Nylon and PC want essentially none, plus a warm chamber.

Adjust by Symptom

Change one variable at a time and reprint the same test. Two changes at once tells you nothing about which one worked.

Speed and Nozzle Size Move Everything

The chart assumes a 0.4mm nozzle at moderate speed. What the hotend actually cares about is volumetric flow, in cubic millimeters per second, so anything that raises the flow rate raises the temperature you need.

• 0.6mm nozzle at the same speed: roughly double the flow, add 5-10C.
• High-speed profiles at 200+ mm/s: add 15-25C over a 60 mm/s profile.
• High-flow hotend: melts faster, so it may need no bump at all.

If a spool that printed fine last month under-extrudes on a new fast profile, the filament is not the problem. You outran the hotend.

Drying Temperatures Are Not Print Temperatures

The dry column above is deliberately far below every print temperature. Drying works by driving moisture out of solid filament, so the filament must stay solid. Go above the glass transition and the roll fuses into a single block.

PETG, nylon, TPU, and PC absorb water fast enough that drying is routine maintenance, not a rescue operation. PLA is more forgiving but not immune.

Log What Worked

A chart gets you to a starting point; your notes get you to a repeatable result. Record nozzle, bed, and fan against the actual spool, not just the material, because two spools of the same material from different brands will disagree. Gyroid stores those settings with each print and each spool so the numbers come back with the filament.